To Refi or Not?

$ 262,000 2.250 % 300 / 300 mths 0.00 254,200.00 4,984.38 6,270.00
262,000.00

needed to close 3,454.38 1,142.66 82.83 458.49 1,683.98

Loan Origination Fee Borrower $ 3,600.00

Underwriting Fee Borrower $ 1,055.00

OTHER CHARGES Credit Report Fee Borrower $ 55.00 Tax Service Fee Borrower $ 88.00 Flood Certification Fee Borrower $ 22.00 Closing/Escrow Fee Borrower $ 599.00 Lender's Title Insurance Borrower $ 306.00

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So they are quoting you on a 25 year loan? The real interest rate is 42.9%. You won't see 2.25% until the 289 month of 300.
 
Yes I recently refi'd , I pulled out 150k to finish our dream home. My new rate is 3.35% Pulling cash out you'll get a little bit higher rate, I have a girlfriend that just did a straight refi and she got 2.5%, no points.
Did you reset the 30 years on your refi?
 
I got quoted 2.86% 30 year fixed jumbo. Thinking of refinancing my 10 year variable (fixed at 3.00%, floats after 10). I don’t think rates will be this good in 10 years. Eliminate interest rate risk
But at 2.86% on a 30 year loan the real interest rate that you'll be paying is easily over 50%. You wont see 2.86% until around the 349th month. If you're really worried about interest rate risk I have a suggestion.
 
But at 2.86% on a 30 year loan the real interest rate that you'll be paying is easily over 50%. You wont see 2.86% until around the 349th month. If you're really worried about interest rate risk I have a suggestion.
My solution is to reinvest the savings on the rate reduction back into the principal balance. Will cut the duration of our loan6 to 7 years. Something we’ve been doing with each refi.
 
San Diego area, conforming non-jumbo loan. Went from 3.75 to 2.75, no points, no fees, etc. Did extend the term to 30yrs from the 22yrs that were remaining. Roughly a $600 per month cash flow savings.

Other options at the time were 2.75, no points etc. same monthly payment with a 2yr reduction on the term to 20yrs or 25yrs with cash out, roughly the same monthly payment.

I don’t plan on living in this house for more than 15 years, when I no longer need access to the public school district for my kids. But... $600/month over 15yrs is a savings of $108,000 in cash flow over that period. I’m looking at that as a down payment on the next home down the road (plus investment income on that cash saved) and will turn the current property into a rental. I doubt rates will be anywhere near this level by then and will use the added rental income to offset any future home purchase increases in P&I payments while doubling my equity growth in the process with the next property.
Your real interest rate is easily over 50%. Why not use your equity to accelerate the mortgage instead? Trade amortized interest for simple interest and use the same account as a checking account.
 
My solution is to reinvest the savings on the rate reduction back into the principal balance. Will cut the duration of our loan6 to 7 years. Something we’ve been doing with each refi.
But if you're going to "reinvest savings on rate reduction back in to the principal balance", you might as well do it with cheaper money (simple interest (HELOC) vs. amortized (MORTGAGE) and drop the total term of the loan to 7 maybe 9 years.
 
Just closed on a cash out refi. Need the money for these AZ trips. Took about 30 days. (30 yrs, 2.74, 2.75 APR.) I have used the Zillow mortgage marketplace for the past 10 years—that’s the online banks. Surprisingly this refi went very smoothly. Did a refi last year at 3.6 during a similar refi boom. Couldn’t believe we’d see rates this low. I remember scoring a great rate at 5%!! when I bought the house many years ago.
 
Just closed on a cash out refi. Need the money for these AZ trips. Took about 30 days. (30 yrs, 2.74, 2.75 APR.) I have used the Zillow mortgage marketplace for the past 10 years—that’s the online banks. Surprisingly this refi went very smoothly. Did a refi last year at 3.6 during a similar refi boom. Couldn’t believe we’d see rates this low. I remember scoring a great rate at 5%!! when I bought the house many years ago.
5.25 was an amazing rate in 2003. Of course I didnʻt know that at the time the real interest rate that everyone was paying at 5.25% was actually 79 percent according to the amortization schedule. Today, we are down to a real interest rate of about 56% with a loan amortized at 2.75 percent.
 
My broker just quoted me a 2.49. Will a 1 point drop be worth it?

absolutely. I just got 2.375, no points. In my case it will pay for itself in 7 months and was about a 1 point drop. Best way to check what fees they are adding on, just compare interest rate to the APR on your disclosure. You want them to be the same or very close so in your 2.49 example you want the APR to be no higher than around 2.55.
 
In addition to refinancing to a lower mortgage rate, each of you should think about simultaneously getting qualified for a HELOC. Most banks will allow 70% CLTV. Some will do 70% to 100% CLTV. Then think about doing the following:

1. Use the HELOC to accelerate your mortgage by making bulk payments to the mortgage from the HELOC. Yes you are moving the balance from one account to another. But your HELOC is a simple interest account and your mortgage is an amortized interest account. That's makes a huge difference. And in most cases, the interest savings easily outperform the Mortgage Interest deduction.

2. Use your HELOC as you would your current checking account. Move all your income from your conventional checking in to the HELOC. Yes, the bank sees that transaction as a payment. But it's a deposit in to your Smart banking account (HELOC) that you can use to pay your bills as they come due.

If you are responsible and on top of your finances, there will be no change to your lifestyle......for now.

But when you pay your 30 year mortgage off in 7 to 9 years. What will YOUR lifestyle be like?

Questions?
 
In addition to refinancing to a lower mortgage rate, each of you should think about simultaneously getting qualified for a HELOC. Most banks will allow 70% CLTV. Some will do 70% to 100% CLTV. Then think about doing the following:

1. Use the HELOC to accelerate your mortgage by making bulk payments to the mortgage from the HELOC. Yes you are moving the balance from one account to another. But your HELOC is a simple interest account and your mortgage is an amortized interest account. That's makes a huge difference. And in most cases, the interest savings easily outperform the Mortgage Interest deduction.

2. Use your HELOC as you would your current checking account. Move all your income from your conventional checking in to the HELOC. Yes, the bank sees that transaction as a payment. But it's a deposit in to your Smart banking account (HELOC) that you can use to pay your bills as they come due.

If you are responsible and on top of your finances, there will be no change to your lifestyle......for now.

But when you pay your 30 year mortgage off in 7 to 9 years. What will YOUR lifestyle be like?

Questions?
Works nicely as long as interest rates stay as low as they are. But if they go up, if your expenses increase unexpectedly or if your income is interrupted, this can be risky for someone who doesn’t have other accessible savings. It can also be counterproductive if you have to refi out of it later on at a less desirable rate.
 
Works nicely as long as interest rates stay as low as they are. But if they go up, if your expenses increase unexpectedly or if your income is interrupted, this can be risky for someone who doesn’t have other accessible savings. It can also be counterproductive if you have to refi out of it later on at a less desirable rate.
This actually works relatively nicely regardless of the interest rates. Amortized loans will always be more expensive than simple interest loans. Simple interest loans make it easier for people to save and make it less risky. Some simple interest loans also don't need to be paid back when income is interrupted and can be found in the private insurance market. Oh yeah and simple interest loans are not taxable. Using a HELOC to pay off your mortgage is way cheaper than refinancing and having to worry about points, etc..
 
Works nicely as long as interest rates stay as low as they are. But if they go up, if your expenses increase unexpectedly or if your income is interrupted, this can be risky for someone who doesn’t have other accessible savings. It can also be counterproductive if you have to refi out of it later on at a less desirable rate.
How the interest rate is calculated is much more important than the actual rate itself.
 
As long as you can make your HELOC payment
Your HELOC payment is easily made each month because you're depositing all of your income in to the HELOC via your conventional checking account. You pay all your bills from the HELOC to include your mortgage. You have to meet the banks Debt to Income ratio to qualify for the CLTV. I'm making some favorable assumptions about the financial integrity of those that are posting here.
 
I think we found the REIT manager.

Why on earth would you get a variable APR heloc when we are effectively at zirp. There is nowhere to go but up? You are literally gambling that the economy is going to be shit the whole time you have your heloc. If you assume that there will be additional stimulus until we're past the virus, rates will have to shoot up afterwards just to cool spending, otherwise we're going to see inflation like we've never seen in our lives.

The secure position here which hedges against rates going up and also against inflation is to get a 15-year fixed rate for insanely cheap. What would possibly be the argument against that? Genuinely curious.
 
Your HELOC payment is easily made each month because you're depositing all of your income in to the HELOC via your conventional checking account. You pay all your bills from the HELOC to include your mortgage. You have to meet the banks Debt to Income ratio to qualify for the CLTV. I'm making some favorable assumptions about the financial integrity of those that are posting here.
I know the strategy and how it works. I was pointing out the risks, because there are some.
 
I think we found the REIT manager.

Why on earth would you get a variable APR heloc when we are effectively at zirp. There is nowhere to go but up? You are literally gambling that the economy is going to be shit the whole time you have your heloc. If you assume that there will be additional stimulus until we're past the virus, rates will have to shoot up afterwards just to cool spending, otherwise we're going to see inflation like we've never seen in our lives.

The secure position here which hedges against rates going up and also against inflation is to get a 15-year fixed rate for insanely cheap. What would possibly be the argument against that? Genuinely curious.

Yeah no worries. I'm not worried about the interest rates going up on a HELOC. They cap out at 16 to 18 percent. A 15 year runs an effective interest rate of roughly 30% with some serious monthly payments. And even if you get a wicked low interest rate on a 15, you wouldn't see an interest payment that low until the 174th of 180 payments. I'm not trying to do the bank any favors. As far as hedging against inflation and rates goes, simple interest is the hedge.
 
I know the strategy and how it works. I was pointing out the risks, because there are some.
Nothing is without risk. But if you know the strategy and how it works you should also know that all the risk you pointed out are mitigated or even eliminated by the "strategy".
 
I think we found the REIT manager.

Why on earth would you get a variable APR heloc when we are effectively at zirp.

Because you're not effectively at zirp. The interest dollar amount divided by the total payment equals an effective interest of 53%

LOAN AMORTIZATION SCHEDULE
ENTER VALUESLOAN SUMMARY
Loan amount
$400,000.00​
Scheduled payment
$1,700.00​
Annual interest rate2.75%Scheduled number of payments
180​
Loan period in years
15​
Actual number of payments
181​
Number of payments per year
12​
Total early payments
$0.00​
Start date of loan
12/02/2020​
Total interest
$131,714.84​
Optional extra payments
$0.00​
LENDER NAMEnotintheface Bank
PMT NOPAYMENT DATEBEGINNING BALANCESCHEDULED PAYMENTEXTRA PAYMENTTOTAL PAYMENTPRINCIPALINTERESTENDING BALANCECUMULATIVE INTEREST
112/02/2020$400,000.00$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$783.33$916.67$399,216.67$916.67
201/02/2021$399,216.67$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$785.13$914.87$398,431.54$1,831.54
302/02/2021$398,431.54$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$786.93$913.07$397,644.61$2,744.61
403/02/2021$397,644.61$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$788.73$911.27$396,855.88$3,655.88
504/02/2021$396,855.88$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$790.54$909.46$396,065.34$4,565.34
605/02/2021$396,065.34$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$792.35$907.65$395,272.99$5,472.99
706/02/2021$395,272.99$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$794.17$905.83$394,478.82$6,378.82
807/02/2021$394,478.82$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$795.99$904.01$393,682.84$7,282.84
908/02/2021$393,682.84$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$797.81$902.19$392,885.03$8,185.03
1009/02/2021$392,885.03$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$799.64$900.36$392,085.39$9,085.39
1110/02/2021$392,085.39$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$801.47$898.53$391,283.92$9,983.92
1211/02/2021$391,283.92$1,700.00$0.00$1,700.00$803.31$896.69$390,480.61$10,880.61
 
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